Every day is barbecue day when you’re in China

One of my favourite things about my trip in China were the ubiquitous barbecues. From about 5pm until around midnight, you’ll find barbecues on every other street corner (and long after midnight you’ll still find some scattered here and there, although much fewer). They look a bit like this, usually:

barbecue guy in Jilin

Long and thin, perfectly sized to put all your skewers shoulder to shoulder whilst preventing the ends from falling in and burning to ashes. Normally there would be a big table with a tonne of different skewers on there – beef, pork, chicken, tofu, but sometimes also fish and usually a nice selection of vegetables. Each skewer costs anything from half a yuan (0.06) to maybe 5 yuan (about 0.70) for the more expensive ones.

In Scotland, or in Europe in general, when people decide to have grilled meats after regular dinner time, it’s usually because they’re drunk. The Chinese don’t seem to be heavy drinkers, which must mean that they’re just awesome! Any day is barbecue day in China, and any time can be dinner time, or snack time, or general grilled meats time. I had a fuckload of barbecue dinners, because they’re so convenient: you can pick what you want to eat yourself, so it requires very little deciphering of menus and trying to speak Chinese to impatient waiters. (Incidentally I also had a whole load of drunken barbie snack times, but that’s another story for another day.)

This man saw quite a lot of my drunken face, as he was stationed right outside my hostel in Shanghai. The guy was a gem - he knew my favourite skewers after one night.

This man saw quite a lot of my drunken face, as he was stationed right outside my hostel in Shanghai. The guy was a gem – he knew my favourite skewers after only one night.

Picking your skewers required a certain degree of caution and care – Chinese tastes are distinctly different from your average European taste, and although I would like to brag I bravely chewed my way through duck’s face and chicken’s claw, I can’t say I was tough enough to even order them. The skewers usually looked innocent enough, but sometimes you’d find yourself stuck with something like chicken cartilage or pork toes when you were expecting something really quite different.

With the vegetables, however, you could never go wrong, because they were always goddamn excellent. My favourite skewers were the ones with garlic shoots and the ones with needle mushrooms, and I always made sure to grab a few of those no matter what. They’d be grilled in no time, covered in a red, spicy oil that really just made everything and anything delicious (even the chicken cartilage, once you got over the crunching sounds).

Here’s a selection of the most delicious things you could get from the night-time barbecues on half of China’s street corners. Some of these items require a little bit of a quest, but if your city has a large-ish Chinese supermarket, you’re sure to find everything you need there. If you’re currently unable to barbecue, for example because you don’t own a barbecue, or because the weather is shit and will be for the next six months, you can use your favourite griddle, which is what I did.

tasty tasty inside barbecue

Go and get:

  • some very lean beef – about 200gr will make you 8 skewers, because we’re making thin slices
  • some needle mushrooms – 100 gr will make for 10 parcels
  • some thinly sliced bacon or pancetta – for making the mushrooms parcels, one slice per parcel
  • some garlic shoots – about 150 gr for 6-8 skewers
  • some garlic chives – about 150 gr for about 8 skewers

Also, for the delicious oily substance:

  • 8 tsp of sunflower oil
  • 3 tsp of red paprika
  • just a pinch of chili powder (really, don’t exaggerate, I made that mistake so you don;t have to)
  • one tsp of salt (which seems a lot but isn’t, when you think about how much stuff you’re spreading it out over)
  • 2 tsp of cumin – I like whole seeds, you can use powder if you want
  • half a tsp of sugar

I asked the guys from the shop if they knew more about this oil. They were convinced it was oyster sauce I had been eating all this time. I’m definitely sure it wasn’t, but oyster sauce is delicious, so I bought a bottle anyway. If you feel like mixing spicy oil is out of your sphere of interest, go oyster sauce.

Some notes on the ingredients.

The needle mushrooms were the most difficult item to find in my case, especially since they’re apparently not in season just now – I got some in a tin and some slightly more fresh-looking ones in plastic, which worked fine. See what you can get and work with that. In case you need to ask at the shop, they’re called jīn zhēn .

The garlic shoots I managed to find here are a little thicker than what I usually got in China, but the flavour is the same. They go by different names in different parts of China, but I asked for suan miao which seemed to work.

Then there’s garlic chives, which are also known as Chinese chives (and apparently also as Oriental chives and Chinese leek, because to Hell with consistency and logic) and these are really awesome. They’re from the garlic and onion family and they were completely new to me. Chinese shops with a decent vegetable section should sell these. Ask for jiǔ cài.

funky ingredients

Start by making your spicy oil. Just take all the ingredients from the ingredients list and chuck them in a bowl together. Mix well, and that’s it.

IMG_1992

Now start on your skewers. Cut any wooden-looking bits of your garlic shoots, then cut them up in pieces of about 8cm. Put about 8 of those on a skewer together, brush lightly with some spicy oil and grill them.

Wash your garlic chives and put them in a colander for a while. If you need to, gently dry them off with a clean towel. Now grab a skewer and start piercing the bits of the chives where it’s round and not leafy – you’ll see what I mean. Thread a few on a skewer, push close together and grill them. These are prone to drying up and burning, so lather them with spicy oil before you start.

this is how you skewer thin, sticky vegetables

Depending on what needle mushrooms you got (fresh or from a tin), they’ll be completely cleaned and ready to use, or not. If not, cut off the bottom bit (which will probably be a bit brownish), then gently separate the mushrooms, taking care not to rip their heads off. Grab a slice of pancetta, roll your mushrooms in it with the heads still poking out. Do this to all of them and grill them. Easy on the oil, they’re quite greasy and fatty already.

needle mushrooms are so exciting

Cut up your beef in really thin slices and impale them on a skewer. As before, brush with oil and grill.

Better yet, do all of the cleaning, cutting and impaling first, then grill everything together. Serve with Chinese tea or Tsingdao!

IMG_1994 IMG_1998 IMG_2001 IMG_2005 IMG_2007 IMG_2012 IMG_2009

About La dittatrice

After years of being based in Glasgow, I've recently made a home for myself in Turin, Italy, for the time being, at least. This blog is my captain's log. Here I note down what I did, and what I ate. A story, then a recipe. That's how this here works. Updates on Wednesdays.
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5 Responses to Every day is barbecue day when you’re in China

  1. Anonymous says:

    ‘… once you got over the crunching sounds’, daarbij schoot ik toch wel even hardop in de lach (ik zit nog steeds een beetje na te hikken terwijl ik dit intoets). Wat een spectaculaire (letterlijk) ‘ditta’ dze keer en wat ziet het er allemaal heerlijk uit. We hebben ons al voorgenomen om binnenkort naar de Chinese winkel te gaan. En die Chinese terminologie ga ik natuurlijk uitproberen, na mijn binnenkomst met een hartelijk Ni hao!
    vader

    Like

  2. lekesi says:

    Need to thank ya again for introducing these babies for me!
    It’s sad I haven’t found anything like the ones in Shanghai here in Yongchuan. I’ll have to look around or do it myself. Dunno, you make it seem so easy but I’m such a halfwit cook.

    As I told ya before, your writing is tasty!!!

    Like

    • Thanks deary :) I’m surprised at the lack barbecues in your area, I thought it was pretty much the national pastime in China! Ah well, time to invest in a decent barbecue then ;)

      Like

      • lekesi says:

        Oh, I’m pretty sure I’ll end up finding them. Around here, nearby the university, I mean, I find more spots to grab some spicy noodles and the famous hot pots etc. Whenever I head to the center of Yongchuan I’m always in a hurry solving some stuff for the university or doing some groceries to cook my survival food back here. The thing is I might have overlooked it when I was there. I saw a lot of people selling stuff.

        Beijo pra ti, Veerle!

        Like

  3. lekesi says:

    Need to thank ya again for introducing these babies for me!
    It’s sad I haven’t found anything like the ones in Shanghai here in Yongchuan. I’ll have to look around or do it myself. Dunno, you make it seem so easy but I’m such a halfwit cook.

    As I told ya before, your writing is tasty!!!

    Like

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